Before I even moved into my new home, I knew there was work to be done. And that, for me, is exactly what I was looking for. Yes, I would love a ready-to-go home, but what fun would that be? One of the things I knew I would need is somewhere to store our bikes. With that, I’m sharing my design and lean-to shed build plans with you. {{happy dance}}

With winter basically peeking around the corner in my neck of the woods, I have to start thinking ahead. One of the projects I want done before the snow flies is making use of this stash of leftovers stored on the side of my house.

There is not only wonderful lumber in here, but also siding, trim, singles, and more. eep!

Where did all this come from? Thankfully, yours truly is a waste-not-want-not kinda gal. While my new garage was being built, the builders requested a dumpster for the “trash”.

I, however, did not want to spend $300 and would go out every single day for about an hour and separate the trash from the #trashure.

Not only was I able to give away oodles of scraps. hardware, and lumber to like-minded folk, but I also kept loot for my own schemes plans… mwahahaha.

That brings me to today.

DON’T BUY, BUILD

In case you’re wondering, I’m not new to this lean-to shed build plans rodeo.

In fact, I actually built one on my last home, but that was in a different size, style, and material. That shed cost around $800 to build but would have cost $2,500 as a kit.

This time, I am designing it to suit my needs and sharing the free plans with you along with my vlog on my build as well (see below). While I spent less than $300 to build mine by salvaging materials, my build definitely costs less than $2K to build.

First, take a look at where I’m placing my lean-to.

Some things to consider:

• your roof line
• direction of weather and/or sun
• space needed to accommodate
• ground features – I have a slight slope away from the house
• you will need at least 3′ of space around each pump/meter/etc.
• what will your lean-to be used for – mine will house our five bikes, but can be easily used for most anything

FOUNDATION IS KEY

Like anything, the foundation is key to many things. We want these lean-to shed build plans to succeed, so we need to make sure the base is ready to go for our build.

For my purposes, I clear the area and make sure it is level from front-to-back and side-to side.

Since I had PLENTY of pea gravel left from my recent DIY fire pit tutorial, I use that as my base. It measures 70″ x 49″ and is a couple inches deep.

READY TO BUILD?

First, my plans are for the frame, doors, and sheathing only. If you use cedar pickets or similar as I did in my previous shed build, you will not need sheathing. Also, I used remnant asphalt shingles. You could use corrugated materials, rolled roofing, metal roofing, and other options as well.

Likewise, here are a few things I learned after I built my lean-to:

• I designed my shed with the roof frame rafters (sides) resting exactly on top of the walls). That worked for me and was better in my previous shed design, However, with using vinyl siding, the J channel ended up butting up to instead of inside and under the rafters/fascia. That does not affect rain entry, but if you use a different depth material, you may need to adjust the width of the roof. Keep that in mind depending on what siding material you are using.
• Due to the wildfire smoke at the time of my building, I am not able to yet complete the build with soffit vent, etc. I will update this post as soon as the smoke clears.

Next, let’s take a look at our materials and tools needed. Be sure to check your local building codes or permits – this plan is for a 12:2 pitch roof.

Feel free to resource materials them via second-hand options like Marketplace, Craigslist curbside, and so on. I shop Curb le Chic all the time for building materials. {{wink, wink}}

Also, I bought in lengths that fit in my vehicle, so consider buying longer boards to save and less scrap.

TERMS OF USE: If you want to use these free lean-to shed build plans for any function, you agree to the following: it cannot be shared or distributed for monetary gain in any way, it may not be modified in any way, and you may not claim the work as your own.

Materials:

• base materials: gravel, landscaping fabric, or pavers – your choice
• 16 – 2″ x 4″ x 8″ pressure treated studs (I tend to buy one extra… just in case 😉 )
• 1 – ⅝” x 4′ x 8′ OSB sheathing
• 2 – ½” x 4′ x 8′ OSB sheathing
• 10 – 1″ x 4″ x 8″ pressure treated boards
• 1 – 11/32″ x 4 x 8′ Ply-bead plywood siding panel (or similar)
• 3″ exterior screws for framing
• 1 ½” exterior screws for door frames
• 1″ screws for door panel
• 2 ½” screws if adding bike mounts (see steps below)
• roof underlayment – there are places you can source remnant pieces – ask a contractor
• 6 – 3″ hinges
• 1 – latch
• flashing – drip edge for front edge, side edges, fascia, and wall to roof flashing – this will depend on what you roof and side with
• flashing nails
• siding materials – fence pickets are a great way to save $ and you can use plywood siding, etc.
• roofing materials – rolled roof, shingles, metal, corrugated – your choice
• finish materials – paint/stain, whatever you desire
• 5 bike hooks if building a bike shed

Tools:

• circular saw
• jigsaw
• miter saw or miter box
• pocket hole jig
• rip cut jig or table saw
• drill with coordinating bits
• tape measure
• builders square
• level
• safety gear
• pencil

Cut list: 1 0 – 2″ x 4″ x 8″ ripped in half creating 20 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” studs

Back wall:

• 2 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 96′ studs
• 4 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 92″ studs
• 2 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 53″ bottom and top plates

Side Walls:

• 2 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 96″ cut at 15° on one end
• 2 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 84″ cut at 15° on one end
• 4 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 96″ left uncut until wall frame assembled (see below)
• 1 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 42 ¼” top plate – cut both ends on matching 15° angles
• 1 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 42 ¼” bottom plate
• 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 63″ header and footer to connect front of side walls

Roof:

• 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 53″ for roof side rafters – cut both ends on matching 15° angles
• 2 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 52 ½” roof ledgers – cut both ends on matching 15° angles
• 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 63″ roof rafters top and bottom fascia

Facing:

• 1 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 53″ top face plate
• 2 – 1″ x 4″ x 81 ⅝” for front facing unnotched
• 2 – 1″ x 4″ x 81 ⅝” for inside facing – mirrored notches on top end at 2 ½” in from inside edge and 2″ from top edge (see photos below)
• 1 – 1″ x 4″ x 12″ header doorstop

Doors:

• 4 – 1″ x 4″ x 78″ styles for door frame long sides
• 6 – 1″ x 4″ x 21 ⅞” rails for top, middle, bottom frame with ¾” pocket joints on both ends
• 2 – 28″ x 77″ beaded plywood panels

The vlog above shows the steps and some fun too.

STEP 1

Now that you have all your pieces cut and your hardware ready to go, let’s build the back wall first.

I did not pre-drill, but you can if you’re concerned about splitting. Also, I build these by myself, so it’s definitely doable, but having a helper makes the job go quicker.

This helper is pulling out staples leftover from the garage builders.

STEP 2

Next, let’s assemble the side walls.

note: my photos are how I saw fit to build according to the lengths of lumber I had on hand. However, my plans have everything spaced evenly. In typical framing, your studs are 16″ on center, so keep within that spacing if you have different lengths as well.

Measure the base plate from each side inward at 14 ½”. Place two of the ripped stud boards, on the frame and mark the lengths. Cut the angle and attach to top and bottom plates using 3″ screws.

STEP 3

After you have your wall frame pieces ready, it’s time to attach them to your wall. If you know where your building studs are, that is a great place to attach your lean-to walls.

Again, using your 3″ exterior screws, attach your frame on all sides (top, bottom, and sides). Be sure to check for level on all faces as this wall will affect all others.

STEP 4

Then, we attach the wall frames on the outside end of our wall frame as shown, as well as anchor to the house wall. MAKE SURE ALL FACES ARE LEVEL – a friendly reminder. {{wink, wink}}

STEP 5

Congrats on building a skeleton! Now we need to make sure it stays steady. Using your 3″ screws, attach the base plate and header.

You can see I have an extra 2″ x 4″ resting under the base plate as I have that slight slope to deal with.

STEP 6

Next, we need to build the roof frame. For heat’s sake and for level surface to work on, I dry fit my roof in my garage, marked it all, and then assembled on site.

Typically, the ledgers are at 24″ intervals, but I place mine evenly at 21″ from inside edge of frame.

As I mention in my vlog above, I did not have a truck for materials, so I had the store rip and cut my sheets so I can haul them home.

Not bad, eh?

Sheathing is cut into 24″ widths and the plywood for doors is ripped at 30″ (I cut it to size at home since I didn’t know exact size yet).

I bought ½” sheathing for the sides and ⅝” for the roof – though I could have used ½” for it all. It just depends on what you’re covering your roof with.

So, instead of one full panel on my roof, I’m piecing it together and needed an extra ledger to hold where the sheathing meets.

Once I have the sheathing in place, I do attach with screws so I have the holes ready for assembly on site. And while I am able, I cut underlayment as well and also piece together my leftover shingles.

Can I just say the angels sang because I only had a couple centimeters of remnant left!! I literally was able to salvage JUST ENOUGH ridge and regular shingles to make a quilt of roofing.

WOOT, WOOT!

Once I had them as I want (a ⅜” overhang for the drip edge) I mark the back in number order and then wash them off.

I told ya… I literally dug these bits out every day as the builders made a “trash” pile.

STEP 7

Up on the roof top, Larissa builds! Time to add our roof frame to our lean-to shed build plans and attach (best seen in the vlog above)

Then, attach the sheathing, followed by the drip edge. You want the bottom drip edge under the underlayment.

Do you know I had a near full roll of underlayment in my “trash” pile? eep!

Next, on top of sheathing, you want underlayment followed by the drip edge on the sides.

To be honest, I’ve not done flashing quite like this, so I learned how to box the ends of the front drip edge.

I impressed myself with my sewing skills because it’s literally the same thing as boxing in fabric. ha!

I show it best in my vlog, but it’s basically:

• add 2″ to each end of your drip edge measurement
• cut on the 2″ mark up to the edge
• cut a 45° angle from the edge of the flashing to the drip edge
• use a block of wood to help shape and bend to make a corner (see video – I practiced on scrap first)

The side drip edge needs to come down the roof over that corner. It was pretty simple!

At this point you then add shingles or whatever roofing you want to use, followed by fascia flashing and wall to roof flashing.

STEP 8

Finally, the side walls get less nakey and we add the sheathing.

I explain in my vlog demo above how I cut the angles to match the 12:2 pitch of the roof.

Using your SCREWS, attach on your studs at 12″ spacing on edges and 16″ on face.

STEP 9

Next, in order for me to add siding, I want to add my face framing as this will allow me to create an edge that the siding butts up against.

I start with nailing the two front 1″ x 4″ x 81 ⅝” to the front stud leaving a ¾” edge off to the outside for siding as well as a ¾” edge inside. MAKE SURE to then attach the front face frame uprights using 2 ½” screws driving into the stud. These will hold your doors and key to making sure they don’t fall down.

Then, I attach the other two notched 1″ x 4″ x 81 ⅝” on the inside creating a casing.

Also, in this picture above, I add another ripped 1″ x 4″ as a top frame. I intend to dress that up once I can add the soffit vent cover. I have scrap vinyl soffit panels for that, but even a wire mesh would keep unwanted critters out.

sidenote: I just want to not here that at this point, I didn’t know that the wildfire smoke coming down from Canada was affecting my area. As soon as I hung the siding, I began to feel ill. I had to take a break and then found out the next day what was going on. That led me to have less-than-desirable filming and photos to be able to share with you as I’m still currently keeping my fanny inside since I’ve had past lung issues. My shed still needs a few finishing touches, so please feel free to ask questions and I’ll update pics when able.

STEP 10

This is where you get to add your choice of siding.

For me, it would have been insane of me to not use my remnant pieces from my “trash”.

I use more of the roofing underlayment I have excess of and attach to the walls. Don’t you know I gave away a HUGE bucket of plastic cap nails you need for attaching this? Instead, I use what I have.

Unfortunately, it’s at this point that I start to suffer from the wildfire smoke coming down from Canada. Though, I didn’t know it yet. Can you see the haze of smoke in the air?

I had one mis-cut. Would you have fixed it? I did!! That would have drove me cray-cray.

STEP 11

Last, but not least, it’s time to build the doors. First, build your frames using your 1 ½” screws and pre-cut pieces that have pocket joints drilled for ¾” thickness in the rails to join them to the styles.

Now that your doorframe is facing down, you can attach your pre-cut panels to the back with your 1″ screws.

Next, add your three 3″ hinges at center and two inches in from either end. Hang on face frame making sure all is level.

Then, add your closure hardware/latch.

I mention in my vlog what I still need to do to finish the exterior as soon as the wildfire smoke clears.

Thankfully, I was able to add blocks for bike mounts with hooks and get rid of those awful tarps out back.

I attach using 2 ½” screws in the pocket joints as well as 3″ screws to attach to wall for added support of the bikes.

Notice in the photo above I added a scrap of 1″ x 4″ as a doorstop. I also mention in my vlog about additional hardware I’m adding to hold the doors open.

What is more, I move the bike helmet racks from my garage to here. You can see those plans and other free build plans HERE.

GOT QUESTIONS?

And just for fun, here’s a mock-up of what my siding painted (or possibly replaced) will look like on this side, at least. I hope to update pics as soon as I can add the soffit vent cover and stain the front.

Until then, tell me what you’d use this shed for in comments below.

AND… what would you use the rest of the lumber I still have for?

UPDATE: See the end result with stain HERE.

Likewise, pin and share these free lean-to shed build plans so others can enjoy too. Here’s to building with trash!

I salvaged enough materials that I spent less than $300 for this build:

• treated lumber
• raw lumber
• shingles
• underlayment
• roof nails
• flashing nails
• siding, including starting strips, J channels, and finish strips

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For more free builds like this lean-to shed build plans, see these: